This is my second to last day and while I am a little sad to leave I am really grateful to be able to return home to people I love!!
Today I woke up at 6:20am to try and surf supers one more time. The tide and wind weren’t right so I decided to wait and have breakfast instead.
I started off with the surfers breakfast, single latte, cheese, and crackers. After breakfast I meditated for 15 minutes or so then Etiene picked me up.
We looked at Albatross and Magnas and decided to wait till 2pm. During that time I watched some guys surfing Supers, I read a bit, watched tv, and took a walk to the Superspar (Grocery Store) to get some money from the ATM.
By the time 2pm rolled around I was itchin to surf. A new guy came in from Santa Cruz (forgot his name) and we all went to Magna Tubes for a session. Some of the sets that were rolling through we’re really fat and big. I thought the guys were sitting too deep but whadda I know 🙂 I caught a couple of the smaller waves that had decent shape and I feel like I’m starting to get the hang of surfing backside. It’ll be a bummer to leave when I’m making so much progress. Oh well maybe I’ll look for another place that has good right point breaks or come back 🙂
After our session we came back and I did the usual routine of rinsing out my wetsuit, taking a shower, stretching, then taking a short walk to get something to eat. For my last evening here I thought about going to The Mexican but I didn’t feel like burdening Etiene to take me there or call Monde. So instead I went to La Pizzeria and had a JBay Surf which consisted of Pork Rib, BBQ Sauce, Mushrooms, Beef, Green Pepper, Onion, and Mozarella Cheese. It was pretty good!! My only regret was that I got a single and not a double. That’s the fatty in me 🙂
My last post tomorrow might be short as I will be traveling home. Take care till then!!