I woke up this morning around 7:30am and I waited till about 8ish to get out of bed. The mornings have been pretty cold so it’s hard to get motivated. Luckily the kitchen was open so I grabbed a cup of coffee, waxed my board, suited up, and went for a surf.
When I got to the spot I couldn’t remember where I paddled out. I walked around a bit but for the life of me I couldn’t figure out where to go out. I decided to go further down the point which was a mistake. I paddled out and tried to get past the waves but I ended up so far down the point that I couldn’t make it back into position. Not only that but the waves today were around 4.5-5 meters which was pretty big. I didn’t see another soul out that wasn’t on a gun which should have been my first indication that it was too big. I tried to get in position for about a half hour which didn’t work so I ended up getting out and re-checking where to go out. I found the spot that Logan and I went out at yesterday so that was a relief but even then I don’t think I could have made it into position no matter how hard I tried. I did see a pretty bad wipeout where someone else took off on another guy but luckily he was ok because the jet ski saved him.
I decided to go back to the surf camp and think about my approach and get some breakfast. When I got back there weren’t many people around. I grabbed more coffee and chilled for a bit until Olivia made my breakfast which was an egg, tomato, and cilantro sandwich which was very good. I was under the impression that the breakfast was covered but it was not which was a little disappointing.
After that I just relaxed, blogged a bit, and didn’t do much. Honestly it’s a little boring and there’s a part of me that wishes I had a car or that I had changed more money. My only concern is that I tried to take out the equivalent of $100 and it wouldn’t let me pull that much out of the atm. Maybe I’ll be brave and venture into town tomorrow.
At around 3:40 I went to the coffee shop (Los Morros) down the way and I got a grilled cheese and strawberry juice. Immediately after that I took a warm shower, got into bed, and started playing Diablo. Thank god for electronics or I wouldn’t know what to do with myself.
I began feeling a bit sick so I had some cough drops (thank good I brought them) and just chilled till about 9ish when I decided to go to sleep.