Pichilemu, Chile – Day 6

The days kind of feel the same for better or worse and as I get used to the pace of life here I find that I’m getting up later as well. Today I got up around 8 or 8:30. I went downstairs to have some breakfast and thankfully Gustavo had everything laid out which...

Pichilemu, Chile – Day 3

Today I woke up around 6:30 and stayed in bed till 7. I had hoped to get some breakfast before I went out but that wasn’t the case. I waxed my board and was getting ready to head out but Logan, someone I met at the camp was going out as well so I waited for him....

Pichilemu, Chile – Day 2

On the second half of my journey going from Houston to Santiago I found a pair of headphones on the ground. I picked them up and put them on a cart, which granted I could have asked if that was ok to do but the stewardess immediately picked them up and threw them on...

Namotu Island Fiji – Day 8

Today I woke up at 6 and had blueberry and banana pancakes which was really awesome for a change!! At 8 we went back to cloudbreak and this time there were nine of us!! I went to the peak but when I looked down the line all I saw were heads and I was afraid to take...

Namotu Island Fiji – Day 7

I woke up around 6 and has a bula breakfast which had mushrooms, spinach, fried egg, and a hash brown. At around 8 we went to cloudbreak. It was supposed to be a good day and man it didn’t disappoint! On our way there we saw at least two boats going the other...

Namotu Island Fiji – Day 5

Today I woke up at 6, went to have some coffee, then prepared to take off to cloudbreak at 6:30. There were eight of us on the boat along with our guide. It was about 2-4 with an occasional 5 so I rode my 5’6″ varial which was more than enough. It was a...