Pichilemu, Chile – Day 4

I woke up this morning around 7:30am and I waited till about 8ish to get out of bed. The mornings have been pretty cold so it’s hard to get motivated. Luckily the kitchen was open so I grabbed a cup of coffee, waxed my board, suited up, and went for a surf. When...

Pichilemu, Chile – Day 3

Today I woke up around 6:30 and stayed in bed till 7. I had hoped to get some breakfast before I went out but that wasn’t the case. I waxed my board and was getting ready to head out but Logan, someone I met at the camp was going out as well so I waited for him....

Pichilemu, Chile – Day 2

On the second half of my journey going from Houston to Santiago I found a pair of headphones on the ground. I picked them up and put them on a cart, which granted I could have asked if that was ok to do but the stewardess immediately picked them up and threw them on...

Pichilemu, Chile – Day 1

I don’t know about you but there’s always a sense of fear and excitement going to a new place. Questions come up like will I get the right sized Uber given I have surfboards?, Will I get to my destination without too much trouble? How will I fare given...

Namotu Island Fiji – Day 8

Today I woke up at 6 and had blueberry and banana pancakes which was really awesome for a change!! At 8 we went back to cloudbreak and this time there were nine of us!! I went to the peak but when I looked down the line all I saw were heads and I was afraid to take...